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Sep 02, 2023 - 08:25 AM
Q - What Additional Clamps Needed for the TSPROF K03 Pro Hunter for all applications?
The system comes with the whole milled clamps of course. I also bought the TSPROF Single Fillet Clamp SKU: TSPROF-CLAMP-CENTER-FILLET for smaller knives like SAK's and say a Bugout (?), and got the convex adapter as I have several convex ground hunting knives.
My question which I can't find details on is do I need anything else to sharpen Spyderco or other FFG blades, or am I set? On older threads I've seen that TSPROF supposedly sold "spring clamps" for those FFG blades? Others say the standard Whole Milled Clamps will work by just putting some tape on the clamps and one of the clamps up against the scales at the ricasso?? Or, are the double fillet clamps mentioned below a better bet?
Finally, if I have the fillet clamp above, what would the application be for the Double Fillet Clamps (TSPROF-CLAMP-SIDE-FILLET)? Would they be used alone or in conjunction with the standard whole milled clamps? Or just for larger / longer fillet knives, chefs knives perhaps?
Thanks, I'm the kind of "buy once, cry once" guy so just want to get the clamps setup for all the knives I own: chefs, hunting, convex, SAK's/Small blades, and most especially FFG blades.
I'll be back to get some different stones in a couple of months once I figure this system out more completely. And please chime in if you think that there are any other TSPROF accessories needed to do a better job.
Appreciate your time and expertise.
A - You'll go a long way with only your whole milled clamps as long as you use them the right way. The single fillet clamp is nice to have but personally I find the side clamps or double clamps more versatile. There is no real need to have your knife centered on the clamp bar as having the knife off to one side of the bar does not affect sharpening angle. It also helps to have your knife off to one side if you have thumb studs or if you want to sharpen in line with a plunge grind line.
As far as "spring clamps" go, your center fillet clamp is actually what is defined as a spring clamp. The center piece between the front and rear part of the clamp is made of spring steel and can flex slightly both ways, allowing for slight alignment of clamp geometry. The "double clamps" and "double fillet clamps are also spring type clamps with the spring steel inserts.
I find the double fillet clamps and regular double clamps very versatile and they are some of my favorites.
As far as FFG blades go, always try to clamp one of your clamps on the flat ricasso section (stops rotational movement/up down movement) and the second clamp around an inch or two back from the tip (to stop flex in the tip). This provides a very securely clamped knife. Never try to "fill in" gaps with rubber or lots of tape to try and make a clamp more secure. This never works well and will always result in movement and inaccurate sharpening.
The only real difference between fillet vs regular clamps, is sharpening angle and clearance with the clamp tips. Fillet clamps are thinner, allowing for more clearance and lower sharpening angles.
The system comes with the whole milled clamps of course. I also bought the TSPROF Single Fillet Clamp SKU: TSPROF-CLAMP-CENTER-FILLET for smaller knives like SAK's and say a Bugout (?), and got the convex adapter as I have several convex ground hunting knives.
My question which I can't find details on is do I need anything else to sharpen Spyderco or other FFG blades, or am I set? On older threads I've seen that TSPROF supposedly sold "spring clamps" for those FFG blades? Others say the standard Whole Milled Clamps will work by just putting some tape on the clamps and one of the clamps up against the scales at the ricasso?? Or, are the double fillet clamps mentioned below a better bet?
Finally, if I have the fillet clamp above, what would the application be for the Double Fillet Clamps (TSPROF-CLAMP-SIDE-FILLET)? Would they be used alone or in conjunction with the standard whole milled clamps? Or just for larger / longer fillet knives, chefs knives perhaps?
Thanks, I'm the kind of "buy once, cry once" guy so just want to get the clamps setup for all the knives I own: chefs, hunting, convex, SAK's/Small blades, and most especially FFG blades.
I'll be back to get some different stones in a couple of months once I figure this system out more completely. And please chime in if you think that there are any other TSPROF accessories needed to do a better job.
Appreciate your time and expertise.
A - You'll go a long way with only your whole milled clamps as long as you use them the right way. The single fillet clamp is nice to have but personally I find the side clamps or double clamps more versatile. There is no real need to have your knife centered on the clamp bar as having the knife off to one side of the bar does not affect sharpening angle. It also helps to have your knife off to one side if you have thumb studs or if you want to sharpen in line with a plunge grind line.
As far as "spring clamps" go, your center fillet clamp is actually what is defined as a spring clamp. The center piece between the front and rear part of the clamp is made of spring steel and can flex slightly both ways, allowing for slight alignment of clamp geometry. The "double clamps" and "double fillet clamps are also spring type clamps with the spring steel inserts.
I find the double fillet clamps and regular double clamps very versatile and they are some of my favorites.
As far as FFG blades go, always try to clamp one of your clamps on the flat ricasso section (stops rotational movement/up down movement) and the second clamp around an inch or two back from the tip (to stop flex in the tip). This provides a very securely clamped knife. Never try to "fill in" gaps with rubber or lots of tape to try and make a clamp more secure. This never works well and will always result in movement and inaccurate sharpening.
The only real difference between fillet vs regular clamps, is sharpening angle and clearance with the clamp tips. Fillet clamps are thinner, allowing for more clearance and lower sharpening angles.
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